Homeward Bound

In January 2010 we embarked on a journey... for six months we were mesmerized by the waves, sand and surf... for six months we were captivated by jagged cliffs along the ocean... for six months we walked about and experienced high temperatures and breathtaking views... for six months we were hypnotized by the marine life in ethereal waters... for six months we fell into a haze that astonished the senses... for six months we were Stranded in Melbourne...

As we pack our suitcases and prepare to head for home, we reflect on all the incredible experiences we have had in Australia... we will miss the beach - Torquay, Mornington Peninsula, Ningaloo, Noosa... we will miss the food, wine and coffee - Tim Tams, Crue, Milo, mangoes, bircher muesli, pavlova, endless restaurants... we will miss the Aussie slang - heaps & heaps, crazy-as, as-you-do, ripper, cracker, far-out... we will miss our new friends... we will miss being entertained - Hamish & Andy, Masterchef, The Castle, Crackerjack... and most of all... we will miss the beach - did I already mention the beach? See you soon...

The Top Ten

1. Snorkelling at Ningaloo Reef
2. Swimming with a Whale Shark
3. Surfing at Torquay
4. The Great Ocean Road
5. The 12 Apostles
6. Sydney
7. Passage Peak, Whitsundays
8. The Great Barrier Reef
9. Tasmania
10. Whitehaven Beach

Down In The Valley

The Yarra Valley is located one hour from Melbourne and is home to many historical vineyards and famous country restaurants. We were fortunate to have our own private tour when a friend kindly invited us for a day of delightful indulgence. We started at the Domaine Chandon winery, which is one of only a few Chandon wineries located outside of France. The welcoming sound of corks popping could be heard as we entered the tasting room, inviting us to sample the many different sparkling wines that they make on site.

Our next stop was the restaurant Stones of the Yarra Valley, situated amongst picturesque vineyards and charming rustic buildings. The decor of the restaurant was inviting, with its high ceilings reflective of the original barn on site, and redesigned with plenty of windows to view the surrounding vines. We enjoyed our lunch of pumpkin gnocchi with gorgonzola, fragrant red chicken curry, homemade bread, local olives, baked kefir potatoes, freshly pressed olive oil and tastings of regional wines.

On to the popular Yering Station, founded in 1838, to sample more of the local grapes and explore the lush gardens and property that lends itself to the historical hotel Chateau Yering. Perhaps it was our last stop of the day that gave us the most pleasure. Still feeling quite full from our plentiful lunch, we decided to stop at the De Bertoli winery and cheese shop to sample the abundant cheeses. By far, it was the highlight of the day, as we devoured a gorgeous cheese platter with freshly baked salted bread. It was a definite palette pleaser and a great way to end our day, down in the valley.

Where The Wild Things Are

We made the decision, that if we were going to travel to Noosa, we were going to visit the Australia Zoo. With trepidation, we headed to the tourist attraction otherwise known as the Home of the Crocodile Hunter, Steve Irwin. Now, I have always been a lover of animals, and in fact spent most of my childhood telling everyone I was going to be a vet, but for some reason, the idea of going to a very commercial zoo seemed a bit wrong... but how wrong we were!

Docile koalas hug the trees throughout various sections of the zoo, munching on branches of gum and eucalyptus. Saltwater crocodiles invade the Crocoseum, while flocks of macaws, parrots and cockatoos swoop noisily in formation above the crowds. Tasmanian devils, wombats, komodo dragons, and dingoes, live in lush habitats, ample with trees to hide behind and water holes to duck under. The Temple of Tigers hosts siblings from the Sumatran and Bengal species, surrounded by high grasses and just enough glass enclosure for a close encounter.

Probably one of the highlights would be our feeding of the Asian elephants, and being slimed with crushed bananas! Without a doubt, it was a day of many encounters, including scratching a koala, feeding a family of kangaroos, exploring the wildlife hospital, and witnessing some of the world’s deadliest snakes. The key message of the day was wildlife conservation. And if you ever get the chance to visit Queensland, the Australia Zoo is definitely worth a visit.

Noosa Heads

Located on the sunshine coast, Noosa Heads has been referred to as the “French Riviera” of Australia. We arrived in Noosa on the Saturday of the June long-weekend, and we were pleasantly surprised to discover a busy vibe in this town by the ocean. Sunday evening was spent grooving along to the bumpin’ nights of Bistro C, located just a few meters from the beach. Glamour and style inhabit the visitors of this beach academy, yet as the holiday-weekend came to a close, the stillness of Hastings Street became a quiet reality.

We enjoyed our morning hikes through the Noosa National Park, winding around the coastal trail. A convenient boardwalk hugs the shoreline, which extends past Hell’s Gates, Alexandria Bay, and stretches as far as Sunshine Beach approximately 8 km south of Noosa. Surfing and kite-surfing seem to be the activities of choice, as the locals take advantage of the everlasting kilometres of gorgeous beaches and rolling surf. Stay tuned for a surf update as reported by the "other-half." The endless waves appear to be calling...

Thirteenth Discovery

We deliberated if we should spend the upcoming rainy weekend at the beach with gorgeous views, or in wine country with gorgeous food. Seeing as we both have a fascination with the ocean and are drawn to the waves, the beach inevitably won.

Our first stop was in the little seaside town of Lorne, located approximately 160 km south of Melbourne, down the Great Ocean Road. In the peak of summer, Lorne is known to be a quaint little town, which draws a lot of the tourist traffic and the weekend holiday crowd. With winter a few short days away, Lorne has actually become a bit of a ghost town, with seasonal shops and restaurants closed until spring, and only a few locals haunting the sidewalks.

We decided to take the journey back to Melbourne via Barwon Heads. What a delightful surprise this balmy beachside town turned out to be! It reminded us of Cape Cod and had all the conveniences of a small town, complete with charming restaurants, bakeries, and coastal interior shops. Our greatest discovery that weekend would have to be 13th beach, which lies on the outskirts of Barwon Heads. We witnessed the beach in all its glory, as it stretched on and on for several kilometres, without a house or building in site. In what was a windy and choppy weekend by the sea, we were overwhelmed by the bountiful scenery offered at 13th beach. It truly was one of our favourite discoveries, and sadly one that will probably have to wait until our next visit to Australia.

Up Close and Personal

Does size matter? In this case, it does... especially when the only thing that separates you from a dozen 8-foot sharks is a piece of 3-inch glass. I just had to include in my blog our incredible experience at the Sydney Aquarium. If you have been reading my earlier posts, you would understand my fascination with sharks. This time, however, I was able to film these so called “harmless” creatures without nervously dropping my camera on the ocean floor! Yes, it is true that the sharks in the photos are actually “harmless” and are not known to attack humans (although, this may take some extra convincing if I was actually brave enough to even put my toe in the tank.) The spotted female leopard shark really intrigued me, seeing as this was the species I snorkelled over when we were in the waters of Ningaloo Reef.

It was the second set of underwater tunnels that we found to be more intimidating than the first. Perhaps our perception has been tainted by the “infamous” shark movie... which has unfortunately given them a bad rap. However, looking at the rows of teeth grinning at me by the lemon sharks (“harmless”), I did shudder with fear and ultimate misunderstanding. The next time I am in the waters of Australia, I will have to calmly think if the word “harmless”, before I nervously jump to conclusions. I will keep you posted!

Tea of Plenty

For as long as I have been in Australia, one of my favourite past times (after pilatés, hiking, and going to the beach) has been “the search for the ultimate scone.” Perhaps it is my British heritage speaking, but I just can’t get enough of scones... sweet or savoury... with double-cream and plenty of jam. In Australia, they call the High Tea or Cream Tea the Devonshire Tea. Regardless of what it’s called, it’s all good to me. Now, my other-half would have to disagree and protest about searching for scones (he would rather be surfing), but I can assure you, he has savoured almost as many as I have... despite the verbal protests.

Scones to write home about were sampled in the Jazz Café in the Dandenongs (a reward after a treacherous 2 hour hike... scenery above), The Mornington Café (following extra grumbles by the other-half), the lounge at Cradle Mountain Lodge (while draped in an armchair by the fire), the Lighthouse Café at Airey’s Inlet (sitting next to magnificent views of the ocean... see above), and last but not least, the Westin Hotel in Melbourne (see above for evidence of a mammoth pot of cream!) It’s official, Australia has turned me into a “sconer.” I will just have to find ways to feed my habit when I get home.

Great Expectations

Hardy Reef, located on the outer edge of the Great Barrier Reef, hosts Fantasea Reef World. On a day with high winds, significant ocean swells and a husband who has a tendency to feel seasick, Reef World is the perfect way to spend the day exploring the GBR. We arrived at the reef station mid-morning and were warmly greeted with pastel colour stinger-suits, with matching skin-tight hoodies and fingerless mittens. It was like watching a parade of candy-coloured super heroes, leaping into a battle below! However, the only battle that I encountered, was trying to negotiate with the buttons of my underwater camera and my spandex mittens.

Once I had sorted myself out, I was amazed to discover my new surroundings. It was a glorious garden of multi-coloured coral beds in bright shades of purple, pink, orange, yellow and green. Enormous clams were dotted amongst the coral clusters, some of which were apparently two to three hundred years old! Luminescent schools of parrot fish, angel fish and cousins of Nemo, swam all round us, curious to see if we perhaps had some treats to offer (the photos really don't give it justice.) A few bubbles from below caught my attention, and I was pleased to discover Rodger scuba-diving 30 feet beneath me.

As I was making my back to the reef station for lunch, I was interrupted by a feeding frenzy, as handfuls of fish food were being tossed all around me. I was caught in a chaotic dinner party (see video attached) complete with massive food fight! Thankfully, I was not the main course. All in all, a great day at the Great Barrier Reef, and I would have to say, it definitely lived up to my expectations.

Passage Peak

Three hours north of Melbourne by plane, floating on the edge of the Great Barrier Reef, lies Hamilton Island. It was a warm and humid morning and we decided it was the perfect time to work-off our latest tasty indulgences. Passage Peak was a 90 minute “gentle” hike from Catseye Beach, where our resort was located. It wasn’t until we were 45 minutes into our hike, climbing straight up, over rocky terrain (which hosted several lizards, and the occasional snake) that we realized “gentle” was an understatement! Perhaps it was the humidity, our over-applied thick sunscreen, or the intense Aussie sun, but we were very happy to reach the top of Passage Peak.

The wind was blowing fiercely from the west, but it couldn’t take away from the breathtaking views at the scenic look-out. It was without a doubt, our favourite view in Australia thus far. We felt like we were looking down from on top of the world.

A Slice of Heaven

Whitehaven Beach has been voted one of the "World's Best Beaches" by Condé Nast Traveler. This slice of heaven is located in the Whitsunday Islands, approximately 20 minutes from Hamilton Island by boat. Depending on the tides, the journey can be smooth and calm, or quite rough and unforgiving, as was our experience. We donned our acupressure bracelets (I highly recommend them), loaded-up on ginger candies, found our seats outside in the fresh air, and braced ourselves for one heck-of-a-ride!

As we drifted around a corner and caught our first glimpse of Whitehaven Beach (finally), we exhaled with relief and anxiously boarded the beach vessel. It was a gorgeous experience. The sand was pure white silica and it stretched on and on for 7 kilometres. We wandered down the beach to seek a place that was secluded and remote. We marvelled at our surroundings. It was a beautiful encounter... one that will go high on our list of exquisite beaches and memorable places to visit.

A Place Called Paradise

We thought we would take another journey down the Great Ocean Road, and what better time than to venture down with Rodger and his Mom. It is without a doubt, my favourite and most memorable driving experience in Australia. As you wind your way south from Torquay to Port Campbell and the 12 Apostles, it really takes your breath away. As cliché as that may sound, each view is more beautiful than the next as you bank around corners and enter small inlets or riverside towns. Once again, we headed to a place called Paradise in the Otways, to stay in a cozy cottage, perched in the rain forest. The kookaburras greeted us every morning with their notable laughter, and we managed to keep them from entering our cottage for afternoon tea. Brave little souls!

What remains of the 12 Apostles (I think there are 6 left standing), are absolutely astounding. Their size and stature are difficult to describe, but they have left a significant impression with me each time I have witnessed their glory. The next time we visit Australia, it may be a few Apostles short, as they inevitably become swallowed by the sea.

The City With A View

There is a strong rivalry between the people of Melbourne and the people of Sydney, as to who has the better city. After living four months in Melbourne, I can appreciate the groovy neighbourhoods, the plentiful restaurants, the lushness of the Botanical Gardens, and the modern city skyline. However, in my opinion, nothing compares to the spectacular views of the neighbourhoods looking onto the Sydney Harbour. With husband and mother-in-law in tow, we spent a long-weekend exploring the best of what Sydney has to offer. If you asked Rodger, he would most likely say that Bondi Beach Sydney, is the place to be, with its superb surfing and its close proximity to the downtown core (note the surfer in the photo above with the white surf board.)

I would have to say that my favourite Sydney experience involved dessert from the Orbit Bar, in the revolving cocktail lounge, forty-seven floors above Australia Square. The 360 degree night views of the Sydney Harbour and city skyline were impressive. Even better, were the triple chocolate soufflés, which were served with hot chocolate sauce. A definite must for anyone who makes the journey down under to visit this city with a view.

Cradled on a Mountain

Tasmania, Day 3&4: We spent our last 2 days in Tasmania at Cradle Mountain... and the parallel journey of feeling like we were at home continued. Cradle Mountain Lodge is nestled in the mossy green hilltops of Cradle Mountain’s National Park. The air is cool and crisp, and the surroundings could easily pass for the Canadian Rockies. We almost forgot that it was Easter weekend, and as we put on our hats and gloves, it felt more like we were celebrating Thanksgiving. All that we were missing was the smell of turkey and a sprinkle of snow.

We spent the day hiking and ascended up an 8 km climb to Marion’s Point, which offers breathtaking views of Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain and the neighbouring forests below. Our treacherous climb to the top was celebrated with chocolate Easter eggs, while we admired the panoramic view. Our descent took us past Wombat Pool, however, we didn’t encounter any furry visitors, unlike the night prior when we were surprisingly greeted by a bouncing wallaby and a brush tail possum (who refused to move off our porch.) Brave and cheeky little devils!

Despite the beautiful scenery of Tasmania, one of the most delightful discoveries would have to be the dessert we ate on our last night... “sticky-date pudding”. You really should try some!

From Tassie With Love

Tasmania, Day 1&2: To all the ex-pats and homesick Canadians... visit Tasmania! We spent the Easter Weekend hiking through Tasmania and by the end of 4 days, we felt closer to home than we have since arriving in Australia 3 months ago. The Bay of Fires on the northeast coast of Tasmania is known for its spectacular coastline, freckled with fire-red rock formations. We began our journey at Launceston and headed to Eddystone Point Lighthouse in the Bay of Fires. A deserted beach of snow-white sand lies southeast of the lighthouse and as you approach the sand dunes, you would swear they were snow-capped.

Making our way down the coast to Wine Glass Bay in Freycinet National Park, we were amazed to discover the similarities in the terrain between Tasmania and Canada. As we hiked the 11km trail to Wineglass Bay Lookout and Hazzard Beach, we were transported to a place that hovered between Tasmania and home. The trees that lined our trail, the pine needles on the forest floor, and the smell of our surroundings truly felt like northern Ontario (near Lake Superior), which was frequently interrupted by the scent and view of the ocean. The rocky formations that carved through our hiking trail reminded us of the Canadian Shield and the trails near Manitoulin Island. We stayed at the cozy and forever green Freycinet Lodge, which could have easily been perched in a Canadian national park.

It was the Australian accent, the driving on the opposite side of the road, and the schooners of Tasmanian Boag’s beer that reminded us we were 17,000 kms from home. We have now passed the half way mark of our trip Down Under, and I would have to say that I am looking forward to enjoying more of our glorious maple syrup country and the comforts of home.

Close Encounters

Ningaloo Reef, WA, Day 7: It was a beautiful sunrise, a calm morning, and a welcoming start to a new day; a special day at Ningaloo Reef. The anticipation for this day had been steadily increasing all week long, as this was the day for an extraordinary journey. We boarded our charter boat at 8:15am, on the edge of Ningaloo Reef and Cape Range National Park. Our instructors briefed us on the safety precautions for the day, in preparation for the voyage we were about to embark on. We had a warm-up snorkel at a deep coral reef, while fish, a sea turtle, and a baby reef shark came into the view of our snorkelling masks.

Excitement began to build as we took off again for deeper water. We held our breath in anticipation while we waited... and then we heard it... WHALE SHARK! Our pilot above had spotted The Big One and we sped full throttle towards her. In a few minutes, we were lined up with our gear, listening attentively to our instructors. In what seemed like an instant, we went from sitting on the back of the boat to swimming frantically in the ocean, trying to reach our spotter. It seemed like organized chaos as we swam in formation around our ocean friend... a four meter female whale shark.

She was glorious. I was awestruck and could feel my heart thumping in my wet suit! Strict Australian laws forbid you to touch a whale shark, or get too close. We circled her succinctly, as she gracefully swam around us. We were careful to steer clear from her mouth, while she snacked on the fish in her wake. Several fish and two sharks swam below her, waiting for leftovers. We swam with all our might back to the boat, and waited for the other group to have their turn. We were allowed one hour with her... a surreal and magnificent experience... and one that will truly be checked-off The Bucket List.

What Lies Beneath

Ningaloo Reef, WA, Day 4: “Do something that scares you everyday” are words to live by. On March 7, 2010, this became a reality as we entered the drift-reef waters of Turquoise Bay in Cape Range National Park. We had just completed our fourth drift of the coral reef and I was swimming back to the beach, propelling myself against the strong ocean current, when from the corner of my eye, a 6-8 foot leopard shark came into focus. It didn’t move and appeared to be sleeping. In about two seconds, I decided to remain calm, and swim faster than I ever had before. By the time I got to the beach, my knees were shaking! I didn’t feel scared, but I actually felt relieved that it hadn’t approached me. As I motioned to Rodger what I had witnessed, he disappeared into the waters below to take a closer look. I could over dramatize and say that my heart stood still, but I would have to describe it as a surreal and fascinating experience, and one that I will never forget.

The Kingdom of Kangaroos

Ningaloo Reef, WA, Day 3: Cape Range National Park is located on the western coast of Australia, remotely north of Exmouth, and approximately a 5-hour flight from Melbourne. The park is perhaps the most authentic way to experience the floral and the fauna, the famous wildlife, and the extraordinary marine life the Australia has to offer. However, Cape Range National Park is truly ruled by the Kingdom of Kangaroos. These creatures are impressive in their stature, and captivating when you first discover their presence, however, one quickly learns that they are very bold and cheeky creatures. As we set up our camp at Sandy Bay, perched overlooking the ocean, we were suddenly invaded by three curious kangaroos that descended on our campsite to investigate the dinner menu. Not even the clanking of pots and pans would send them on their way. We eventually gave up and decided to share our space with the kangaroos, after all, we were guests in their living room.

I Dream in Turquoise

Ningaloo Reef, WA, Day 2: Turquoise Bay hosts the most spectacular display of coral reef and marine life I have ever seen. We caught the current 100 meters up the beach and drifted into a mesmerizing sea of spawning coral - blue-tipped, vibrant green, and bright purple, are just a few of the colours that were beginning to flourish after the last full moon, which triggered the coral spawning. Hundreds of marine life characters greeted us, as we drifted into the ethereal waters. In a silent dream state, we glided over the coral beds and wondered at the vision below. We came upon 2 sting rays, an eel, an octopus, and several hundred species of fish. We had just come out of the water to take a breather, when we noticed a pair of black-tipped reef sharks glide into our view... we decided to save the snorkelling for another day.

Saltwater and Seashore

Beautiful beaches and breathtaking coastline inhabit the Victoria region. From Torquay down to Port Campbell, from Cape Schanck up to Brighton, we have spent most of our weekends discovering spectacular shoreline.

The 12 Apostles - and then there were 6. Standing on the cliff at Port Campbell National Park, the view of the remaining Apostles is simply magnificent. With Antarctica the next destination, if feels almost primitive, as if you are standing at the edge of the world.